Canon EOS R50 24MP Mirrorless Camera Review: A Budget Camera Worth Buying?

[Music] Hi I'm Dustin Abbott and I'm here today To give you my review of the Canon EOS R50 this is their compact mirrorless Body that was their cheapest body until The more recently released r100 model Now I want to start by saying a big Thank you to camera Canada for getting Me a loner of the camera and also the Kit lens that comes with it I have had a Difficult time getting canon looners in Recent years and they've been great to Help me out however and whenever they Can so thanks to camera Canada they've Become the source that I personally go To for buying basically all of my gear At this point and so thanks to them my First foray into Canon mirrorless was Actually with the original Canon EOS M Which was their first mirrorless camera The EOS M lineup has died after about 10 Years of existence Though part of the reason for that is That Canon gave it next to no support For the latter half of its existence After 10 years there was a grand total Of eight lenses that existed from Canon In the EFM Mount so Canon has obviously Dumped that after not really having Supported it and they are all in on Their RF Mount including the apsc Version which they call RFS the R50 is An apsc specific camera and it's part of The newer basically a newer version of

The M50 Mark II but in a body that Reminds me maybe more of a can a camera Like the EOS SL2 or 200d the EOS R50 is A very compact apsc mirrorless camera With a 24 megapixel sensor and a very Competent autofocus system definitely Better than anything we ever saw on the M Mount and it's all for a price Currently of $580 us for the body only Or 7 $100 with this 18 to 45 mm uh image Stabilized lens now there are some pros And cons with this compact camera but in Many ways it's kind of hard to give it a Final score until we see whether or not Canon is actually going to support the RFS mount in a way that they didn't with The EFM Mount we are close to two years In at the time I'm doing this review With the EOS R7 the first apsc R Mount Mirrorless body It's been released for nearly 2 years And to this point we have a grand total Of four lenses available all of them Slow VAR variable aperture zooms there's Not really a lens in the lineup that Gets me excited so obviously that is Going to have to be settled out to see Whether Canon is going to support this System but setting that aside for now We'll explore the now of the EOS R50 Right after a word from our sponsor Today's episode is brought to you by the Phantom duffel a new unique conver Convertible duffel bag that starts as a

Compact packable case that easily fits Into your luggage or carry-on bag but Then converts into a 35 L duffel the Exterior is made of 1680d ballistic Nylon which is tough and weatherproof The interior has a high visibility Reflective finish that allows you to Easily see what's inside even in a dim Hotel room a large foam pouch on the Side has a cable pass through to allow For charging and the removable straps Use a fidlock system to easily and Securely connect them I've been using it For the gym and it has room for my water Bottle a change of clothes a basketball My massive shoes a towel and a charger For my cell phone visit store. fanom Wallet.com to check it out and use code Dustin2 for 20% off when you're ready to Check out so let's start by talking About the build and handling the Ergonomics here I'll start by saying That little cameras like this are a Tough fit for my hands I feel like I end Up kind of pinching the camera rather Than actually gripping it because there Just isn't enough room for me to really Curl my fingers to where the grip is Fitting tightly against them so I just Kind of have to pinch down and and Support it and so in many ways it's Harder for me to hold a small camera Like this than it is a larger one and so I wanted to go for a second opinion on

The ergonomics CU it's clearly not Designed for someone with the my siiz Hands so I had my wife use it a bit she Has much smaller hands she liked it just Fine and she would say that it would be A pro rather than a con for her so if You're looking for for a very compact Camera or if you have small hands the R50 will be a better fit for you than What it was for me now it certainly is Lightweight it weighs in at just 13.2 o Or 375 G and that is with the battery And the memory card Installed now interestingly at one point Canon was going a little bit more Upscale a little more fujiishi their Control scheme that was going back to The EOS M5 and it had a total of four Different control wheels or dials on it In this case we have gone to a literally A single wheel at this point although You can get a secondary Comm control With the control ring on um if you're Using Canon RF Mount lenses uh those Typically will have that control Wing so That might give you a secondary point But obviously if you're adapting older Lenses like EF Mount lenses you're not Going to have that available to you and So they're you're basically relying for Navigation on the very large large Touchcreen that is on the back we don't Even really have a fully kind of Developed d-pad here and that everything

Is already assigned some function so you Can use that Su for navigation once you Get into the menu you can use the d-pad But typically the d-pad is going to have Assigned values that you would have to Reprogram so there's definitely no Joystick or anything like that you're Going to mostly navigate with the Touchscreen fortunately Canon's Touchscreens are fantastic they are Highly responsive the menu gives you Enough space to actually touch and Navigate on there and so I do appreciate That and it certainly makes up for a lot Of the other ergonomic vulnerabilities When you have such a good uh touchscreen There this is for the size of the camera It's a very large touchscreen it is 3 in It has a very decent 1.62 million dot Resolution in many ways I feel like this Camera in general is designed more for People who don't want to do all of Particularly all the old DSLR stuff or Don't want a lot of control they really Want to use it more like a point and Shoot and you can see even in the uh the Menu system itself that it typically Before you dive into a deeper mode when You switch into a a mode the first menu That's going to pop up is going to be More of a a basic menu that kind of Tells you you know what the function or That mode how it operates and so I would Say that this camera is designed a lot

For people who want the better image Quality than what say their old point And shoot or their their camera phone is Going to be able to produce but they are But at the same time they don't want to Be overwhelmed by a lot of physical Controls now if you're familiar with These type cameras from Canon you're Going to find a pretty familiar button Layout here the buttons are fairly flush So not easy to use if you're wearing Gloves but obviously it's a compact Camera and they've got to fit a lot in There I will note that because of this The small size of the grip over here my Palm is going to be all the way over Onto the L LCD screen covering up all The buttons so you know it's that's part Of the the reason why they are so flush Is so you don't actually depress them With your palm when you're gripping There now obviously there is no separate Mode dial for video mode and so video is Just on the top the top mode dial and it Is laid out no custom modes this is a More basic style camera with just kind Of the basics there on top one thing I Will point out is that's unusual in my Experience with Canon cameras is that There is no self-cleaning function at All on the sensor itself and so you're Not going to get the vibration so you're You might want to get a blower just to Help to keep that sensor clean the evf

Here is it's nothing impressive but it's You know it's decent specs for this Class of camera it's a 2.36 dot uh or Million dot evf here I will say that I Certainly prefer this position than what We get with a lot of the small Sony apsc Bodies where the viewfinder is off to The left side so I do prefer the central Location again more typical to what I See on Canon cameras but also on Fuji Cameras as well there is a small flash Here though I recommend that you only Use it out of absolute necessity I can't Even find a guide rating for it it's not Super bright and unless you really like The look of direct flash photography I Would recommend that you find other ways To get better shots out of it there is a Single card slot and in this case it's Only uh hs1 rated and that becomes Relevant in just a moment also down here Here is going to be the battery it is The lp E17 battery same battery that It's actually used on the larger EOS R8 Budget full-frame mirrorless camera I Dinged it a little bit there because it Just seems like a cheap out kind of move By canon in that body and this body here Though it makes a lot more sense it is Large enough it's rated for 440 shots When using the LCD screen 310 when using The viewfinder though it's not hard to Exceed either one of those and battery Life seemed didn't seem unusually poor

At all in my test and in my use you're Probably going to want to get a Secondary battery it's smart to have one And particularly if you're wanting to Shoot something like 4K video uh that Does eat through battery life fairly Quickly now this camera does have some Of Canon's improved communication Standards including the ability to use It as a a webcam or for you know video Conference calls without any additional Software that's always going to be Welcome uh there is no inbody image Stabilization though at this price point Point I didn't really expect it uh the Various ports are divided up to the two Sides of the camera with on the left Side it being only the microphone input On the right side we have the USBC and HDMI ports that is a micro HDMI output There so you are missing things like Headphone monitoring Jack nothing like That is present here now the body here Does remind me a little bit more Something like the SL2 not really like The early EOS embodies which tend to be All magnesium they were actually really Nicely made cameras this feels a little Bit more plastically by Comparison and I would be remissed if I Did not point out at this point that as A general system observation Canon RF Mount remains closed to third-party Lenses and so in this sense it is a bit

Of a step back from where we were with The OS M system while while there wasn't A lot of Canon lenses for osm at least It was open and so that there was some Sigma lenses some samyang lenses some Tamron lenses vro lenses available you Could get some uh lenses on that Platform whereas on RF Mount they simply Aren't available at this point so that's That's obviously very unfortunate it Means you're limited to whatever Canon Puts out and at right now there are no Prime lenses for EFS so you're you stuck Using some of the fullframe you know the Cheaper smaller fullframe prime lenses For RF from Canon I don't obviously not Crazy about that aspect of Canon's Current direction the kit l lens is an 18 to 45 mm a 4.5 to 6.3 is STM lens it Runs you about $120 in addition if You're wanting to buy that in kit it's Not a fantastic lens but neither is it a Bad lens either I will release a review Of the lens itself down the road if You're interested in that now the Shutter here uh I I recently did the EOS R8 and it's kind of the same shutter Configuration so that seems to be a Direction that Canon maybe is moving With their less expensive cameras in That we don't really have a fully Mechanical shutter we have the option of Electronic first cut curtain a Mechanical shutter here that can get you

Up to 12 frames per second in burst mode Not bad at all and it also uh has a an Upper shutter speed limit of 14,000 of a Second which is not fantastic but it's Pretty typical for this class and a Little bit better than usual is your Flash syn speed is one 250th of a second Which again is not bad at all now the Other option is to go to a fully Electronic shutter you can choose for it To make a little bit of a clicking sound Or no sound at all you can get a little Bit faster burst up to 15 frames per Second and you have a little bit higher Of a shutter speed limit up to 1 18,000 Of a second but you aren't going to be Able to do any kind of flash syncing for Example no flash photography with it and So I mean there's some obviously pros And cons some rolling shutter things Like that to be aware of that can be a Factor with a purely electronic shutter And either system obviously 12 frames Per second and 15 frames per second is Not radically different it's both Figures are very very good for a camera Like this but at the same time it's kind Of offset by the fact that the buffer Depth is extremely small remember I Mentioned that it's only UHS one Compatible the memory card slot here That means that it's not riding very Quickly to the card and that shows up And so if you are going to shoot raws

Full raws your buffer limit is seven so At 12 frames per second or 15 frames per Second that means you're getting well Less than a second of burst or buffer Depth before you run out of that and Even if you switch to C- raw that's Compressed raws you're only going to get 15 compressed raws so I mean if you're Shooting with the electronic shutter That's 1 second it's a little bit more If you're shooting with the um Electronic first curtain uh shutter your Jpeg depth is a maximum of 42 so again It's still not all that great and so What I I found that to be very Restrictive when I tried to shoot burst And it's a shame because otherwise Autofocus is fairly good here we have Dual pixel AF here which is a a great Focus system not as good as the the Current absolute best from Canon but It's a very good Focus system with Nearly 100% basically 100% coverage of The entire frame divided into 651 Autofocus zones I found that whole area AF works very good and you know it felt Kind of weird to me here I am mention This little camera like for events you Know trying to hang on to it but able to Just track around with a speaker up Front and just seeing it lock onto the Eye and track around was was really kind Of an interesting juxtaposition of the The two extremes at least for me

Personally I did use it for some Portraits and I found that I got very Good portrait results no issues there With autofocus nice and sticky on the Eye well focused in results I found that I got good autofocus results even with The kit lens and you can see here my Basic test that you know autofocus is Doing a good job of transitioning from One to the other you can see um Outdoors That sped up a little bit even with the Kit lens and then you can also see that Eye stickiness is really quite good as I Moved around it does a good job of Locking on and staying on the eye now When I went to do some bursts and Tracking I found that the tracking is Good but not as robust as what I saw on The EOS R8 it was pretty much magical And staying sticky on there I use the Exact same lens which is the RF 24 to 105 F4l for both of those test and I Definitely got better results with the R8 than I did with the R50 I did see a Bit of back focus swing sometimes with This whereas I didn't see that at all With the EOS R8 I love a couple of Things here I love the whole area AF That it works so well I love even more The fact that Canon has an auto subject Detection for the AI tracking so rather Than having to choose the right subject You can just let the camera does it and

It does a great job of that and so You're kind of always ready for whatever You want to track whether it's a human Animal vehicle subject you can switch Between those things without any kind of Issue I did find that autofocus in low Light was also remained good and video AF was good as well it's using Essentially the same autofocus system With just a few you know fewer tracking Zones but it does a very good job there As well I would say this is probably the The biggest area of growth for Canon's Compact cameras is the Improvement in Autofocus that we see now on the video Side of things you have a upper limit of 4K 30 but it's very good 4K 30 it's got 6K oversampling full sensor readout you Know that's one of the very nice things About shooting with this 6000x 4000 Pixel resolution is that it translate Really well to oversampling from 6K you Can shoot you have the option of Shooting you know kind of normal and Then also in shooting HDR PQ there is no Log mode here and so if you're wanting a Little bit more dynamic range you're Going to need to shoot an HDR PQ which Is fine it just takes a little bit more Storage and will eat your battery up Just a little bit faster if you want to Do slow motion in full HD you can shoot Up to 120 frames per second and so you Can do some slow motion work there there

Is no self-imposed recording limit You're basically going to be able to Record according to Canon's White Pages Seems like you're over recording time is Going to be limited by one of two things The size of your card and the capacity Of your battery when the battery dies Obviously the recording quits the Biggest thing that annoyed me about Video mode here is that you have Basically two control options when it Comes to your video mode there's either A full auto mode and so you don't have Control over aperture or you have the Option of going to a fully manual mode Obviously I didn't want I want to be Able to retain retain app aperture Control and so I I did the manual mode Most of the time I would prefer Obviously having an AV mode there to Give me the kind of control I Want but unfortunately I found that the Uh the metering in video mode was just Wasn't perfect and I ended up with a lot Of underexposed footage when I was Shooting in manual even though the Actual metering showed that I was Shooting at U you know basically you Know zero EV not under or Overexposed at All and so you know that was one Irritant and so when things are right in The settings the footage looks very good But I didn't end up with a fair bit of Underexposed that seems to be the way

That it biases as far as the metering And so not as fantastic as what I saw With the EOS R8 but again it has about All you would expect for this level of Camera in terms of the video specs so Finally let's talk about the sensor and On the sensor side of things I will give You a really quick overview I'll give You my conclusion and then we'll do a Full sensor Deep dive if you're Interested in that at the end of the Review so this is a new 24 megapixel Sensor it is shared with the r10 so it First debuted in the r10 it is now Adopted in use here and so it is a Little bit improved from Canon's Previous 24 megapixel apsc sensors it Shows a little bit better dynamic range Uh photons of photos rates it at 10.57 Stops which is as good as what we've Ever seen from a Canon apsc sensor so Some improvements on that front uh you Know color and detail all look good I Was slightly disappointed with the iso Results I felt like I saw more noise and A little bit more color blotchiness Earlier than what I anticipated and so I Did go to photons photos to check their Results and I found that yes in fact There is obviously there's considerably Better results that are coming from some Other brands apsc sensors and and so You're going to see a little bit better Results from either Sony or Fuji in that

Regard Nikon and so it's you know a Little bit of a a regression maybe on The iso front but overall this is a Camera that you're able to get greatl Looking images with good detail looks Fine I I'm I'm more of a fullframe man Myself I I do prefer the larger sensors Personally but I also recognize and Comparing to other apsc sensors that Canon is moving along in the right Direction and this sensor is definitely Improved in some areas just not all of Them so in conclusion I feel like There's a little bit of a one step Forward two steps back here there are Areas that are definitely improved Improved autofocus good autofocus system For such a compact camera it's a Slightly improved sensor but I don't Like the control ergonomics as well as What I've seen from some previous Compact models like the M5 from Canon in The past the other kind of major issue Here is because this remains a closed uh Platform to third party development it Means that those of you that started to Invest in the eosm system and maybe you Have some EFM lenses they aren't going To be able to adapt to this so you know They're kind of gone in that way and any Of the third party you know Mount lenses Won't work here so you're you're stuck With whatever's available on RF and to This point Canon hasn't done a ton of

Lens releases I hope that's going to Change in the near future but that does Remain a very real consideration at Least at this point and at some point The excuse well you can adapt a whole Catalog of EF lenses at some point that Has got to cease to be the the Justification here because that's what I've been hearing ever since the eosr Was released you know 5 years ago so This is a solid little camera if you Want to travel light particularly if you Have smaller hands it's a very decent Camera for the money if you're on a Budget it is a little bit hard for me to Recommend it over similar Sony or Fuji Models however because of the lack of Lenses available for it now if you're a Canon person and you believe in Canon's Road map moving ahead by all means go Ahead and invest in the system but I do Know that from feedback from the Audience there's a number of you that Are getting frustrated with Canon's Philosophy at this point here's hoping That that's going to change in the near Future I'm Dustin Abbott if you want More information you can check out my Full text review that's Linked In Description down below and if you want a Deeper dive into the sensor performance Stay tuned let's jump into it together So we'll start by taking a look at Resolution and color now at 24 megapixel

This is not Canon's highest resolution Sensor that is the 32.5 megapixel sensor Found in the Eos R7 and other models but Here we can see that 24 megapixels is Enough that even at a pixel level to Produce nice detail in the image colors Here look fine obviously Canon has a lot Of experience in being able to produce Nice looking images so while this isn't A top resolution point frankly it is I Think it's plenty on an apsc sensor and Obviously going higher than that does Come with some uh issues that will Detail a little bit more later so Clearly this camera is capable of Capturing beautiful colors uh one of the Many many lakes here in Ontario you can See the ice starting to melt off and Near Sunset you can see that the detail Is really nice as we'll get to in a Moment Shadows don't always recover as Clean as what I would like and this is One area where apsc often bows to a full Frame or larger sensor but you can see Across the frame capable of getting nice Color and a lot of detail there now I Did find as I kind of started to allude To in the last image that when you start To kind of push this camera I find that It's you know you get a little bit more Noise than what I would like I also Found that it's maybe not as flexible in Editing color as what I would say I find To be with their full frame sensors from

Canon and so I just found that colors Kind of pushed a little bit more than What I would like when starting to do Editing but again here looking at detail You can see throughout the frame we have Nice detail here and this particular Shot is taken with the 18 to 45 mm kit Lens now when it comes to skin tones This particular shot is taken with the Samyang RF 885mm f1.4 so it does tend Towards a little bit yellowy as you can See here so popping over to a native Canon lens this is the rf2 8 mm f2.8 you Can see that skin tones look nice and Natural again something that Canon is Renowned for doing well and you can see That the skin tones they don't go green They're not overly magenta they're nice And neutral here another portrait shot Here you can see again it's capable of Producing really nice detail for Portrait work good skin tones and the Overall color here looks nice so next We'll take a look at dynamic range and First of all here is a properly exposed Kind of our base setting here for Dynamic range so a few areas that we'll Look at in the textures along here and Inside the mirror inside the SLR what we Want to see in this is we want to retain Good contrast we don't want to see color Blotchiness in here we don't want to see Noise get out of control in the color Swatches obviously we don't want to see

Any kind of color shift but colors to Stay neutral um as we recover and then Also here in the shadow information Again we want to see Shadows not get Kind of messed up with a lot of extra Noise or color shifts blotchiness things Like that so we'll see how we do here in Recovering Shadows now modern cameras Are typically very very good when it Comes to recovering any kind of smaller Amount of Shadow information so I'm Going to jump right to three stops we Look at three four and five stops so you Can see here with the original that Shadows are obviously very crushed here You can also see that there is some odd Coloration due to that undere exposure Taking place in the timer face and some Of the swatches but we can see here on The right side where I've added those Three stops of exposure back to the Image in post that everything here looks Nice and clean looking at this I don't Really see any kind of color blotchiness Looking inside the mirror area I don't See any obvious noise this area right Here is going to be one where we'll see Most likely noise start to happen it Looks fine here and I'm not seeing a lot Of hot pixels though I can see it is not Perfectly uniform in the recovered area There looking at the color swatches we Can see just a little bit of fine noise There but nothing severe no kind of grid

Pattern in this area anything like that Yet here at four stops looking at it Globally obviously on the left side the Original everything is crushed even more But we can see it looks about the same In the recovered Point looking at it Globally and if we jump into a pixel Level we can see that again the timer Face has recovered nicely we can see Looking at the swatches there's a bit More noise but I don't really see any Kind of grid pattern there looking here At the grip on the SLR uh no color Blotchiness a little bit more noise Visible inside on the mirror but not Terrible likewise down here you can see There's a little bit more noise and you Can see that we're getting a little more Unevenness in the shadows I think There's I can see a little bit of color Blotchiness there and also um it's not Evenly black anymore we're definitely Producing some noise noise as we recover The Shadows there at four stops now at Five stops everything was obviously very Deeply crushed in recovering it we can See in the timer face that yes the color Is restored right you can see some Really obvious noise in there as well um You can also see that here you can also See you'll see if hopefully it'll show Up on screen there's a little bit of of Green and magenta color blotchiness There definitely more visible noise

There you can also see a little bit of That blotchiness now in what should be Uniformly black here in the grip some Very obvious noise inside here and as we Come down here you can just see that the Noise pattern has gotten a whole lot Rougher likewise in the uh area that Should be kind of just shadowed you Could see it more over here that it it's Just it's very very uneven so definitely I would say while you're still able to Recover Beyond three stops you're going To do that at some increased cost when It comes to noise and also some color Block watching us so now we'll go the Other direction we're going to take a Look at the ability to recover highlight So we're going to start at two stops Typically One Stop every camera can do That no problem so the main thing we're Looking for here as you can see in the Timer face some of the color information Has been lost on the over exposure over Here there's going to be hot spots and Texture that goes away on the cover of The Pentax here and then also down on This lever you can see that some of the Color swatches colors will start to Disappear so we're going to see how we Do in recovering all of that so shifting Over to the right side here starting With the timer face you can see Everything is nice and uniform there That color has been recovered fine also

On the front of the SLR here we can see That the kind of the metal texture has Been recovered likewise here on this Lever on the front of it there's no Leftover hot spot so pretty good there And in our swatches up here we can see That colors that started to disappear Have come back pretty uniform normally Without any kind of major issue there Finally down here in the spine of this Book you can see that it was blown out Initially but it is recovered back to Where contrast looks natural and normal So while we were completely successful With the two-stop recovery we can see at Three stops that things are not quite as Rosy somewhere between two and three Stops we reach a limit of perfect Recovery so we can see in the timer face Now there is just unevenness unevenness In terms of the coloration so there Where it shadowed a bit towards The Edge You can see the proper colors there but It's blown out a little bit more in the Center likewise looking at the cover of The SLR you can see that some of that Metal grain texture is gone from this Point less exposed here and so that has Recovered pretty much fine looking up at The color swatches color information has Come back that's something that Canon's More recent sensors have done quite well You can see here that that all of those Color swatches have been recovered

Looking down here we can see that the Contrast it's a little bit give and take It's not perfect but it's come back Reasonably well and so we're starting to Lose some things there at three stops But you might be able to live with that Now when it comes to four stops of Recovery we can see that the end result Is completely unnatural a lot of color Information has been lost and not Recovered and some of these swatches Here the covers colors here even many of Them that have not been blown out they Just look very washed out and dingy and So this is obviously not a successful Recovery so obviously the ability to Recover uh dynamic range just gives you Some editing choices so for example in This shot I shot Framing and obviously Exposing for the lighthouse beyond that Means that a lot of the information here Of this structure is crushed away so if We look in here we can see we've been Able to recover this information that Shows us the plate that is uh that was There holding that beam up likewise Looking up in here we've been able to Recover that information in the shadows Here quite effectively to where we can See everything everything that's there And sure there's a little bit of extra Noise has been introduced but it's Obviously acceptable likewise in this Shot here I obviously exposed for the

Sunrise in the shot and we can see Looking down here that all the blacks Were crushed here looking to the right Side we can see that we've been able to Successfully recover that information There in the Rocks if we jump in and Look at a pixel level we can see that There is some noise that comes at the Cost of that you can see that there's Just grain here and there perhaps a Little bit of some color blotchiness There in some of the darker areas that Were more crushed but you know were able To if you look at the image as a whole It's fine if you did some noise Reduction again it would be fine so it's It's definitely useful though it's not Perfect not as good as what I'm Typically seeing on their Canon Fullframe sensors so now we're going to Take a look at how this camera handles High ISO performance now uh one quick Caveat is that while 24 apix doesn't Sound very high realize that fullframe Equivalent for a Canon 24 megapixels Because of its 1.6 times crop factor so That is actually more pixel density than Say the EOS R5 and it's 45 megapixels of Resolution so again on the left side we Have what is going to be our base ISO And we're going to compare it as we move On up we're going to start at ISO 800 Here so a few things that we'll look for Once again we're going to be looking at

The grip texture here here we want to See it stay with good contrast again no Color shifts the various noise spots That we've looked at before we'll look At that we'll look at the color swatches And we'll also look at the shadow area To see if those pixel pixels remain even There and so that our contrast remains Good so we can see having already looked Around this image a bit that at ISO 800 Things are really still very clean There's not there's the various just the Beginning of a little bit of noise but Nothing that's obvious nothing that is Destructive to the image at ISO 1600 Looking at it at a global level Obviously things look pretty much equal Maybe just a tiny bit less contrast if We punch in here we can see that there Is already there's just a tiny tiny bit Of maybe some color blotchiness on that Grip texture probably not enough that You would ever notice it there's a Little bit extra noise you can see on The surface of the mirror inside here if We look in this kind of Shadow area here It still looks nice and clean Up into this you can see just a little Bit of fine noise we look down into this Area not a whole lot in terms of Roughness looking into the Shadows However the Shadows already are a little Bit more uneven than what I would like As we go on up to uh 3200 you can see

Already we're definitely starting to Lose some of that shadow information and The shadow is starting to raise which Means the contrast isn't going to be as Good for example if I throw 1,600 back Up here on the left you can see compared To 3200 on on the right already it Doesn't look as dark as what it did even At 1600 going back here to the grip Surface and looking inside of the mirror It's mostly that the noise is just a Little bit more obvious you can see that The Shadows aren't quite as dark Likewise in areas like this you can just See a little bit more of that fine noise We're going to continue to use ISO 1600 As kind of our last place where things Were all acceptable I would say moving Up to 6,400 you can see looking in the Spine here of the color swatches Definitely more obvious noise likewise In the swatches themselves you can see That it is more obviously noisy you can See much more noise in there on the Mirror and if we look over at the Shadows the Shadows are getting lighter And lighter as there's just more Diversity of pixels we're also starting To see more rough pixels in here than we Did before now by 12,800 you can see That's looking really rough and and so Not as clean as what I would expect from Either either a similar Sony or Fuji Sensor I'm not necessarily Blown Away by

The high ISO performance you can also See the beginnings of a pattern that's Going to show up here almost a circular Pattern in the shadow area looking at This area the noise is really quite Rough and again over on this side we can See with those Shadows it's it's just It's not fantastic if we move on to 25,600 we're getting to a place that's Pretty close to unusable you can see the Noise is really rough Shadows are Basically gone and you can see these Kind of circular rings that have started Up moving back in here you can see some Color shift you see this green Blotchiness through this area looking Also on the grip of the SLR you can see A lot of that green shift that's taking Place in those colors noise looks really Rough here and you can see this kind of Circular pattern so 32,000 is kind of The upper limit of the native range and You can see you can really see that Circular pattern in fact if I jump out You can see there's just like Rings Going around and around in there and if We dive in close we can really see that Uh definitely more color blotches of Green a little bit of magenta here and There I wouldn't consider that to really Be a usable image and you can go up in The expanded range to 51,200 but you can See it just gets far worse still and so More color shift more of that circular

Pattern and then of course the amount of Noise and its roughness is just really Really rough to the place where we're Kind of losing Shadow information almost Altogether now here is kind of to me Best case scenario this is 25,600 at on This camera but I've switched to a Monochrome that helps the noise to just Kind of look more like film grain but You can see that on a close examination There's just there's a lot of noise There and uh Shadow information is just Not great you have to really kind of Want that particular look I don't think That I often do but anyway this is an Area where the 24 megapix sensor in the Eos R8 that I just tested was much much Better so thank you for sticking around To the very end as always thanks for Watching have a great day and let the Light in [Music]

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